Saturday, June 18, 2016

Snaefellsnes!

(Gesundheit! You sneezed, didn't you?)

As I wrote yesterday, we were surprised by and really liked the Hofsstadir Guesthouse. Here are a few exterior shots and the view out the back. The food for both dinner and breakfast was very fresh and tasty.

Hofsstadir Guesthouse, June 2016
Today we had another new driving experience on our way to the Fosshotel Hellnar on the Snaefellsnes peninsula: 60 miles on dirt and gravel roads. The speed limit on the main roads (as small as they are) is 90 kph (55 mph); on the dirt roads, it was slowed down a bit to 80 kph (49 mph). Not much of a difference. But a much less pleasant drive. Of course, all of the bridges on the dirt highways were single lane; surprisingly, we saw a fair amount of traffic. Probably because this is the main highway into the north shore of the Snaefellsnes peninsula (Gesundheit!)

Bridge over no water, June 2016
We also came across these kookie karacters along the road. I have no idea what they are. They do look like they are attracted to each other.

Sweethearts., June 2016
And more horses. There are tons of sheep and goats, but a fair number of horses. Not too many cows. We saw no pigs or chickens at all. Most restaurants have lamb on the menu, many have beef, few have chicken, and only the hot dogs have pork. Several restaurants have horse(1).

Don't look at me that way, I had the fish, June 2016
As usual, we drove through a few small towns. None were unique enough to warrant getting out and walking around. But we made a small detour for ice cream (very good!), and to visit the Eriksstadir, a recreation of the house that Eric the Red, and his son Lief Erikson, lived in 1,000 years ago. The short story is that Erik was kicked out of Iceland for being a bad guy, discovered and settled in Greenland and lived there. Lief made it to Newfoundland, but the weather was too harsh compared to either Iceland or Greenland at the time, so he returned to Greenland. Both died in Greenland. The sod hut was interesting, and had much in common with other primitive peoples: small & smoky, and family, children and slaves all in one room.

Although the house is a recreation built in 2000, it is built as the Vikings in Iceland would have: made from driftwood (there's little wood in Iceland), no nails, covered with sod for insulation. The loom is significant, as according to the sagas, it played a role in Erik's troubles with the law and his wife.

Late in the afternoon we got to our penultimate destination, the Fosshotel Hellner right outside the Snaefellsnes National Park in western Island. I'd show you some pictures, but it started raining and blowing about when we got here late in the afternoon and hasn't stopped yet. The desk clerk says there's a glacier right outside our room, but we haven't seen anything but fog and rain. We haven't had any sustained and heavy rains yet, just frequent short ones. With any luck, it will clear up shortly.

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(1) Wrote one on the menu chalkboard: "Eat like a Viking: Horse!"

 

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